Knitting pattern for Dahlia sweater

Dahlia is a wonderful, classic sweater with a beautiful, structured stitch pattern, inspired by the Dahlia petal structure. Perfect for all seasons of the Danish weather. We have invented some new increase techniques that you will learn as you go.

Dahlia is easy to knit, top-down, which lets you fit the sweater to your measurements as you go. The design is oversize, with a positive ease of approx. 15-20 cm (6-8 inches) compared to your body measurements, and features deep armholes and 3/4 sleeves.

Sizes: (XS)S(M)L(XL)2XL(3XL)

Measurements Dahlia sweater:

Chest: (100)109(115)120(125)135(142) cm
Length: (56)57(58)59(60)61(62) cm

Armhole length: (27)28(29)30(31)32(33) cm
Underarm sleeve length, ¾ sleeve: (27)27(26)26(25)24(23) cm

Underarm sleeve length, full-length sleeve:(44)44(43)43(42)41(40) cm

Materials Everyday kit for Dahlia w 3/4 sleeves:

(150)165(175)185(195)210(230) g / (2)2(2)2(2)2(3) cones of Önling No 12, 55% wool, 45% cotton, 750 m per 105 g.

(60)65(65)70(75)80(80) g / (2)2(2)2(2)2(2) cones of Önling No 13, 95% first-cut lambswool, 5% cashmere, 1010 m per 50 g.

The sweater is worked all the way through with one strand of No 12 and one strand of No. 13 held together. NOTE! The above quantity of yarn is enough to work the sweater with 3/4 sleeves. If you want full-length sleeves, you need to buy 1 extra cone of No. 12 and 1 extra cone of No. 13 for sizes XL, 2XL, and 3XL.

Materials for Dahlia w ¾ sleeves in No 2:

(200)225(250)250(275)300(325) g Önling No. 2, 100% Superfine Merino Super 100’s wool, 120 m per 25 g.

The sweater is worked all the way through with one strand of Önling No. 2.

NOTE! The above quantity of yarn is enough to work the sweater with 3/4 sleeves. If you want full-length sleeves, you need to buy 50 g og Önling No 2 extra, for all sizes.

Gauge: 22 sts and 32 rows/rounds of stockinette stitch on needle(s) size 4 mm / US 6 = 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches.

Recommended circular and double-pointed needles sizes 3.5 and 4 mm / US 4 and 6.

Directions: The sweater is worked in the round from the top down. Stitches are cast on using the provisional crochet caston method to allow adjusting the neckline later. Short rows are used over shoulders and the back of the neck to make the neck higher at the back. The yoke is worked with raglan increases and deep armholes. The piece is then divided into body and sleeves, which are finished separately.

Proper Care and Washing for Your Wool Knits – Make Them Last Longer

Wool garments can last for years, but they need proper care. Washing is one of the main culprits of wear on knitwear. Luckily, wool contains lanolin, which has a self-cleaning effect, so you rarely need to wash your wool knits.

• Lanolin has a self-cleaning effect because it reacts with moisture and salt, helping to neutralize odors like sweat.
• Hang your wool clothes on a chair overnight – they’ll be fresh by morning. You can also hang them outside for a few hours in humid weather.
• Regularly comb your wool knits with a wool comb to remove pilling and fuzziness. This gives your tired knits a "facelift" and prolongs the time between washes.

Machine Washing Wool

While we generally recommend hand washing wool garments to maintain control over temperatures, agitation, etc., if you prefer machine washing, follow these recommendations:

• Only machine wash your wool, if you know your machine well; test its wool program before washing your favorite sweater.
• Ensure that the wool program washes and rinses at the same temperature (max 30°C). Large temperature fluctuations cause wool to shrink and felt.
• Always use liquid wool detergent without enzymes. Regular detergent contains enzymes that will gradually eat away at the wool, leading to holes. You might not see the damage immediately, but holes can appear after 15-25 washes.
• Spin your wool at no more than 400 RPM to avoid felting. Alternatively, use the 'rinse hold' option and roll the clean knit in a dry towel to remove excess water.
• Always dry wool flat on a drying rack – preferably on a towel, and never in direct heat.

Hand Washing Wool

• Ensure you wash and rinse in water of the same temperature – around 30°C. Large temperature differences cause wool to shrink and felt.
• Always use liquid wool detergent without enzymes. Regular detergent will damage the wool over time, eventually leading to holes.
• Gently press your woolen garment in soapy water, avoiding wringing or pulling during washing.
• Roll the clean knit in a dry towel to remove as much water as possible.
• Always dry wool flat on a drying rack – preferably on a towel, and never in direct heat.

Washing Önling No 12 and No 16

• Keep in mind that the yarn hasn't been washed before it was spun onto cones and sent to you.
• For the best results, soak the finished sweater in lukewarm water for at least two hours (longer is fine). This will help the yarn bloom, making it softer and fuller.
• After soaking, wash the sweater as you would wool knits.

Washing No 14

• Önling No 14 should be washed gently at a maximum of 30°C, for example on the wool program in the washing machine.
• It can be spun at a maximum of 800 RPM.
• Avoid using a tumble dryer. Instead, dry your knit flat on a drying rack – preferably on a towel, and never in direct heat.

Washing No 21

• Önling No 21 is colorfast and spun from linen and cotton, which can handle a gentle machine wash (max 30°C).
• Spin your knit at a maximum of 800 RPM.
• Avoid using a tumble dryer. Instead, dry your knit flat on a drying rack – preferably on a towel, and never in direct heat.